Ionian Ascents: Albania, North Macedonia and Greece by Road Bike

Day 1: Meet in Tirana

We meet in Tirana to start the tour. Our guide talks through the route, the daily distances and what to expect on the road. We sit down to a welcome dinner in the city centre.

Tirana rewards a walk. Italian architects laid out the ministries around Skanderbeg Square in the 1930s, and the Et'hem Bey Mosque still stands among them from a century earlier. The concrete pyramid a few streets south went up in 1988 as a museum to Enver Hoxha, who ruled Albania for four decades, and beyond it lies Blloku, where only Party officials lived until 1991 and where much of the city now eats and drinks.

Please let us know if you need assistance with airport transfers or pre-tour hotel bookings.

Sky 2 Hotel (or similar)
Dinner

Day 2: Tirana → Peshkopi

We leave Tirana after breakfast and drive east for around two hours to Borovë, a village in the Librazhd hills close to the North Macedonian border. We have a coffee, get sorted on the bikes, and set off on the first ride of the week.

The road runs north along a ridgeline with the border a short way to our right, opening out over the mountains on both sides. We cross several rivers and stop for lunch in one of the villages along the way. It's the shortest ride of the week, though it climbs more than the distance suggests, and a final pull lifts us into Peshkopi, where we have dinner together.

The capital of Dibër county sits high above the valley, and people have come to its mineral baths for generations. Mount Korab rises north-east on the border at 2,764 metres above sea level, the highest peak in Albania.

Mont Blanc Hotel (or similar)
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Ride 53km
+892m
-1038m

Day 3: Peshkopi → Ohrid

We start with a long descent out of Peshkopi and cross into North Macedonia inside the first 15 km. From there we pick up the Black Drin and follow it for the rest of the day, first along Lake Debar, the reservoir Tito's government created when it dammed the river in the 1960s, then past the town of Debar itself.

The valley narrows and opens again, undulating rather than climbing, and we stop for a picnic lunch along the water.

At Struga we reach the point where the Black Drin leaves Lake Ohrid, the lake's only outlet and the current we've ridden against since the border. The last 10 km run along the shoreline into Ohrid. The lake has held water for two to three million years and carries more than 200 species found nowhere else, and UNESCO lists the lake and the old town together. Dinner is on your own in town.

Royal View Hotel (or similar)
Breakfast, Lunch
Ride 90km
+695m
-731m

Day 4: Ohrid → Kastoria

We ride south along the eastern shore of Lake Ohrid, flat to start. Around 13 km in we pass the Bay of Bones, where divers found a prehistoric stilt village on the lakebed and a reconstruction now stands on piles above the water.

Then the road leaves the lake and turns up into Galičica National Park, 20 km of climbing to a high point of 1,593 metres above sea level on the ridge that separates Lake Ohrid from Lake Prespa. Both lakes are in view from the top.

We drop to a road high above Prespa and follow it back into Albania, coming out of the mountains onto the Korçë plain. The riding finishes near the farming village of Plase, where we stop for lunch, then transfer into Greece (approx. 1 hour) to Kastoria. North Macedonia, Albania and Greece, all in one day.

The town sits on a peninsula in Lake Orestiada with water on three sides, and takes its name from the beaver, whose pelts built a fur trade here from the Middle Ages. More than fifty Byzantine churches survive in its streets. The evening is free to walk them and find somewhere to eat.

Hotel Kastoria (or similar)
Breakfast, Lunch
Ride 88km
+1597m
-1452m

Day 5: Kastoria → Konitsa

Today covers more ground than any other day of the tour, one long climb and a much longer descent. Out of Kastoria the road follows the Haliacmon upstream, the longest river entirely inside Greece, rising gently for most of 39 km and steepening near the top to Nea Kotili at 1,520 metres above sea level. We break for a picnic lunch, then the road runs downhill for 64 km, further than any other descent on the tour. It ends in Konitsa, at the meeting of the Aoos and the Voidomatis, where we share dinner tonight.

A single stone arch has spanned the Aoos at the edge of town since 1870, 20 metres above the water, and many call it the largest of its kind in the Balkans. A bell still hangs under it, there to warn travellers when wind through the gorge made the crossing dangerous.

Hotel Rodovoli (or similar)
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Ride 103km
+1635m
-1668m

Day 6: Konitsa → Përmet

We leave Konitsa through wooded gorge country and follow the Aoos northwest to the Albanian border. It's the gentlest riding of the week, most of it downhill.

Once we're across, the river changes name and becomes the Vjosa. It's the same water, running free for more than 400 km from the Pindus to the Adriatic with no dam on its main stem, and Albania made it Europe's first wild river national park in 2023. We follow it down to the hot springs at Benje, at the mouth of the Lengarica canyon, where the ride finishes and there's time to get in. Pack something to swim in. Lunch is at a local restaurant nearby.

A short transfer takes us into Përmet (approx. 15 minutes), a town known for its roses and its gliko, whole fruit preserved in syrup and eaten by the spoonful. You have the evening to browse for it, try the local raki, and pick somewhere for dinner.

Hotel Alvero (or similar)
Breakfast, Lunch
Ride 55km
+665m
-943m

Day 7: Përmet → Sarandë

The road stays low almost all day. We follow the Vjosa out of Përmet for 35 km, then turn south along the Drinos river, stopping for lunch on the way. Gjirokastër stands on the hillside above, a UNESCO town of grey stone tower houses with stone roofs, most built in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries and some five storeys tall on their foundations. A castle sits above and an Ottoman bazaar street of two-storey stone arcades runs below, with time to walk both. The road finally goes up 20 km past the town, 5 km at 6% over the Muzina pass at 564 metres above sea level. The descent ends at the Blue Eye, a karst spring where divers have gone 50 metres down without finding the bottom. It's the source of the Bistrica, which runs 25 km from here to the sea. We transfer to Sarandë (approx. 30 minutes), where we reach the Ionian for the first time and Corfu sits across the channel in plain sight. Dinner is on your own along the seafront.

Hotel Agimi (or similar)
Breakfast, Lunch
Ride 96km
+738m
-822m

Day 8: Sarandë → Berat

This is the hardest day of the tour, and the only one where you choose how hard. The road north out of Sarandë never settles: climb after climb along the Riviera with barely a flat kilometre between them. We stop for lunch at Dhërmi, a village of old stone streets about 200 metres above the water, and this is where you decide: finish the riding here, or carry on up the pass. The pass adds 13 km and 900 metres of climbing. The road turns up from the coast and stacks hairpins through the pine forest of the Ceraunian Mountains to the Llogara Pass at 1,036 metres above sea level, with the Ionian directly below. A transfer then takes us inland to Berat (approx. 3 hours) for the last night. Tiers of white Ottoman houses climb both banks of the Osum, which is how it earned the name city of a thousand windows, and people still live inside the thirteenth-century castle above. We close the week with a farewell dinner.

Hotel Mangalemi (or similar)
Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Ride 71-85km
+2497m
-1467m

Day 9: Tirana departure

We leave Berat after breakfast and transfer to Tirana (approx. 2 hours), where the tour ends. We can drop you at Rinas airport for onward flights, or in the city centre if you're staying on.

If you are, Tirana repays a couple of extra days. Bunk'Art 1 sits on the edge of the city, a five-storey bunker of 106 rooms dug into the hillside between 1972 and 1978 to hold the country's leadership through a nuclear attack that never came. Enver Hoxha, who ruled Albania until his death in 1985, built more than 173,000 bunkers across the country and never needed any of them. The Dajti cable car starts nearby and lifts you above the city. Further out, Krujë is 45 minutes away, a hill town round the castle of Skanderbeg, who fought the Ottomans in the fifteenth century, with his museum inside and one of the few Ottoman bazaars still working in Albania.

Please let us know if you need assistance with post-tour hotel bookings or with onward transfers if you're staying on. We are happy to help you organise these final details for your journey home or an extended stay in the capital.

Breakfast

Disclaimer: The adventure cycling tours we operate often go beyond the beaten track, and the countries where we ride are not always predictable. Due to these reasons, it is occasionally necessary to reroute or update itineraries. Our guarantee is that we will not change a trip unless for safety or to improve it. Our listed hotels are always accurate at the time of writing, but should we have to change any hotel, it will always be for a similar or better one.