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History and cultural tours of Burma by bike
Travelling around Burma you soon become aware of the immense legacy of a proud and powerful former kingdom that dates back 1,000 years or more. Indeed Bagan arose from a powerful early dynasty founded as early as the 9th Century. Later Pegu was to arise as the new capital of a resurgent empire in the wake of the Mongol invasions, but smaller states of Arakan and Shan grew independently.
The next great dynasty was the Toungoo Kingdom, which was a successful unification of warring states in Ava (Upper Burma) and oversaw great advances in governing and carved out enormous influence through vassal states in Northern Thailand and even Northern India. It lasted two centuries before being overrun by the Konbaung Kingdom which had evolved from the earlier Hanthawaddy Kingdom (near Pegu).
This was the largest and most powerful that Burma had ever seen, and was responsible for sacking Ayuthaya and defeating the Siamese. But they were ultimately defeated by taking on neighbours on two fronts, including the Chinese to the North. Eventually the Anglo-Burmese War of 1885 over Assam saw them decisively defeated, their royals exiled and the ultimate demise of Burma as a Kingdom.
In 1937, Burma became a self-governing colony and by 1948, it was free from British rule and renamed the ‘Union of Burma’. As an independent nation it was never politically stable as factions in government fell out, disparate minority groups in the far flung corner of the ‘union’ were unco-operative with Rangoon and communists from the North threatened. Military control was the best of bad choices, and unfortunately the Burmese have been ruled, somewhat incompetently, by men in uniform ever since. The country is now officially known as the Union of Myanmar but it still goes by the name Burma to many who reside there as well as those overseas.
Generals, starting with Ne Win, have ruled this poor country of 50 million with an iron fist since 1962, sometimes in the most bizarre manner. In 1990 an election was held and the military were soundly beaten by the National League for Democracy under Aung San Suu Kyi but they refused to recognise the outcome or hand over power. The current military government is promising another election, which many have already written off as a cynical event that aims to democratically legitimise further military grip.
Meanwhile Burma has become one of the poorest countries in Asia, with crumbling infrastructure, draconian control, and poor state assistance. The government has made little effort to aid the plight of millions left homeless and ill from Cyclone Nargis in 2008 and engaged in a brutal putdown of monks in the ‘Saffron Revolution’ in 2007.
Culturally, the country is piously Buddhist, and the numerous temples and pagodas that dot the landscape add to its appeal, particularly at Bagan. It was once a proud and strong kingdom, and features remains of exceptional palaces and temples. However, 60 years of misrule have left many in a parlous state. The people are typically friendly and humble as you would expect of Asia, though somewhat subdued by the harsh political climate that pervades the country.
Burmese food is similar to Thai food, with spicy curries and Indian influences, while the national costume is distinctive: the women wearing colourful skirts and smart tunics; the men uniformly are decked in the longyi – a colourful checked sarong. Burma is in fact made up of numerous minority groups and though the Burmese occupy much of the lowlands and control the country politically, there are dozens of tribes, such as the Shan, Wa, Kachin, Rohinga and more who exist almost autonomously in highland border areas in the far north. The Burmese army has little control over these areas, and insurgency groups render much of the upper reaches off-limits.
When visiting temples it is vital to be respectful of local cultures by removing footwear and covering exposed skin so that shoulders, breasts and thighs are covered. As a largely Buddhist country, it is also important to remember that topless sunbathing on the beaches is frowned upon along with raucous behaviour while visiting religious buildings.
